MONTHLY WINE ISSUE: AOC LUBERON & AOC COSTIERES DE NÎMES
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH CÔTES DU RHÔNE
AOC LUBERON
This year I’ve been lucky to attend a few events focused on wines from this region and now it’s time to share some knowledge about these amazing wines. This iconic part of Provence with its châteaux and hilltop villages is brim-full of architectural treasures; its charm and relaxed lifestyle have attracted numerous artists, including Picasso, André Lhote, Nicolas de Staël and Albert Camus. The vineyards grow in the surroundings of the Luberon Natural Regional Park, part of UNESCO’s World Network of Biosphere Reserves. The vines are planted between 200 and 450 meters altitude. Giving a wide range of daytime temperatures, which in turn gives the wines a distinctive edge of freshness. Although the appellation produces all three colours, it is best known for its aromatic, elegant, vibrant rosés. The whites also have good finesse, and feature the citrus notes of Vermentino. The reds are rounded and balanced with a good expression of fruit.
HISTORY
Luberon has a long, distinguished history, dating back to the Lagozza Culture some 5,000 years ago. Headstones carved to resemble human figures bear witness to the presence of an early farming community in the area, while the vineyards have been there since ancient times. Wine was introduced here by the Greeks, who also planted the first vineyards, but viticulture truly began to flourish under the Romans, particularly around Aigues. A bas-relief depicting barrel was found at Cabrières d’Aigues, along with various vessels for holding wine, including amphorae and demi-johns similar to the ones depicted on the memorial stone at Cabrières. The Calvet Museum in Avignon holds an exhibit known as the “Treasure of Apt” – the finest known set of bronze wine-drinking vessels apart from those found at Pompeii, dating from the 2nd or 3rd century. The Luberon vineyards flourished in the Middle Ages, particularly during the Avignon Papacy, then enjoyed varying degrees of success from the Renaissance through to the early modern era. Growth intensified again towards the end of the 19th century and between the two world wars. Since the 1970s, Luberon’s winegrowers have been involved in a series of major projects to upgrade and modernise the appellation vineyards; as a result, they were awarded Luberon AOC status in 1988.
GEOGRAPHY
The vineyards extend across 36 communes in the Luberon Regional Natural Park, in the Vaucluse département. Bordered by the Calavon to the north and the Durance to the south, they lie on both sides of the Luberon Massif, except for the Combe de Lourmarin which separates the Greater Luberon range from the Lesser Luberon.
CLIMATE
The climate is largely Mediterranean but influenced by altitude, with wide variations in temperature and cold breezes blowing in from the Alps. Luberon is one of France’s sunniest regions, with 2,600 hours of sun a year – perfect for ripening the grapes. The sharp overnight drop in temperature gives the vines a chance to rehydrate and promotes slow, gentle ripening.
AOC COSTIERES DE NÎMES
With vines stretching as far as the Roman city from which they take their name, the Costières de Nîmes appellation vineyards provide a graceful transition from Provence to the Camargue, Planting in garrigue landscapes with views of the wetlands. The vineyards, with 2,000 years of history, boast a number of outstanding features, including raised terraces of pebbles deposited by the Rhône and Durance rivers, the vigour of the Rhône’s classic grape varietals, sea breezes from the Mediterranean, and the Mistral wind. Costières de Nîmes is mostly geared towards making red and rose wines, with a much smaller proportion whites. The appellation has made pioneering progress in terms of environmental and landscape protection; 25% of its vines are now grown organically as a result of green initiatives launched over 10 years ago – the Costières de Nîmes Environmental and Landscape Charter being just one of them.
History
Vines have been grown in Costières de Nîmes since ancient times. In 31 BC, Roman legionaries returning victorious from the Egyptian campaign, settled in Nîmes. The palm and crocodile, emblem of both the town and appellation, symbolise Egypt’s surrender to Rome at the Battle of Actium. In 280, Cassius Severanius, Governor of Narbonne, gave orders to replant the vineyards. In the Middle Ages, the Abbey of Saint Gilles du Gard became the Languedoc Commanderie for Knights Hospitaller of the Order of St John of Jerusalem; this was when viticulture really began to develop. In the 14th century, wines from St Gilles, Nîmes and Costière were among the most popular at the Papal Court in Avignon. In the 17th century, the construction of the Canal du Midi was a boon for winemaking, linking the Rhône to Sète. In 1955, Philippe Lamour built the Canal du Bas Rhône Languedoc, channelling water from the Rhône southwards towards the Gard, and eastwards towards the Hérault. He became an authority on viticulture in the Gard, advocating improvements in quality. He was appointed President of the Syndicat des Costières du Gard (VDQS since 1950), and subsequently of the body overseeing Vins Délimités de Qualité Supérieur. Costières du Gard was officially recognised by INAO in 1986, and changed its name in 1989 to Costières de Nîmes.
GEOGRAPHY
The vineyards span 40km between the lowland plain of the Petit Rhône and the marshlands of the Petite Camargue, bordered to the north by th e valley of the Gardon.
CLIMATE
The climate is Mediterranean, characterised by a period of semi-drought from June to the end of August. The marine influences of the Mediterranean introduce cooler air. Rainfall is infrequent, and the Mistral wind has a naturally cleansing effect.