Winter foodie escape: three days in Helsinki
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH MYHELSINKI
Christmas in Helsinki is so much more that jingles and bells. The dark time of the year and temperatures below 0 offer a chance to discover the calm and peaceful side of Helsinki. The food scene is amazing and many cosy coffee shops are there to keep you warm. It feels so good to be back travelling and I’m very happy that Helsinki was one of my first destinations after being grounded for so many months.
At the moment Finland is open for double-vaxxed visitors from the UK, you only need to book a Day 2 PCR test on the return to the UK and isolate until your negative result.
After arriving we checked-in to our base for the next three days - Noli Studios in Sörnäinen. The hotel is located in the area of Sörnäinen, the centre point of Helsinki’s hip urban culture and nightlife. The old industrial area with red-brick buildings and early 20th century architecture is alive with galleries, cafés and bars. With the easy access to public transportation, the Helsinki city centre is just a few minutes away from the hotel. The concept of the hotel is ‘studios’ which means you have a mini kitchen in the room and even a tiny washing machine hidden in the bathroom.
Address:Hämeentie33, 00500 Helsinki, Tel.+358201441050, sornainen@nolistudios.com, www.nolistudios.com/en/noli-sornainen-helsinki
Day 1
Breakfast at Relove Freda
Might be the most ‘instagrammable’ food in Helsinki. I know, thank me later. It’s beautiful and delicious! They do breakfast sets for 19 euros which makes a very good value as well. It is a second-hand shop as well as a cafe. Their mission is to make buying and selling second-hand products an effortless, beautiful and, above all, holistic experience. Relove has been an inspiring pioneer in the sale of second hand products since 2016.
Address: Fredrikinkatu25, 00150 Helsinki, Tel: +358 50 4625151,
info@relove.fi, https://www.relove.fi/
After breakfast we went to the iconic Finnish chocolate producer - Fazer. The factory offers ‘Fazer experience tour’ that includes a visit to their winter gardens, long history of the brand and unlimited chocolate tasting (worth a trip, right?!). On site they have one of their famous bakeries where you can have lunch (if you have any room left after the unlimited chocolate tasting).
Address: Fazerintie 6, Vantaa
For the evening the best place to be is Helsinki Christmas Market! The Helsinki Christmas Market (“Tuomaan Markkinat”) is the perfect place to stop and enjoy the atmosphere. The food yard presents some of the city’s leading restaurateurs, seasonal treats and an interesting programme of events. You can enjoy all the great food around cosy urban bonfires. There is also an old-fashion carousel that kids can ride for free while you warming up with a steaming cup of glogi (local version os mulled wine), and you can whisper all your Christmas wishes in Santa’s ear.
Day 2
Breakfast at Flät no14
Flät no14 is a new living room in Kallio area. A place, where you can easily step in, have a great cup of coffee or a glass of wine and eat good food. I loved the unusual concept of breakfast! Small plates that you can share or have for yourself. If you anything like me and always struggle with what to choose, this place is the best! Order 3-4 small plates: scrambled eggs, tiny pancakes and personal highlight - raindeer mousse with freshly baked soughdough.
Address: Viides Linja 14, 00530 Helsinki, info@flathelsinki.fi, www.flathelsinki.fi
To appreciate art-deco architecture of Helsinki have a wonder around Arabianranta, Katajanokka (Puu-Käpylä wooden house district), Kamppi, Etu-Töölö and Jätkäsaari neighbourhoods. If it’s too cold visit one of many museums. I went to Design museum and spent the whole afternoon there.
Lunch at one of Bun2bun cafes.
Wether you’re vegan or not (I’m not) you’ll enjoy some plant-based burgers and beers here. New tastes and ingredient combinations will blow your mind!
One thing that you absolutely can’t miss while in Finland - enjoy the beautiful sauna and swimming experience in one of many Helsinki’s public saunas. We went to The Allas Sea Pool. The Allas Sea Pool offers candlelight swimming and saunas, open all year round and offers experiences and refreshment with the view of the Market Square, beautiful!
Dinner at Finnjävel Salon
A must visit for fine dining lovers. Finland’s first two-Michelin-star chef Tommi Tuominen, an owner of Michelin-star restaurant Demo, gained a Michelin-star for the restaurant Finnjävel Salon in September 2021. A menu inspired by Finnish home cooking, traditional methods and Finnish ingredients.
The name Finnjävel, literally Finnish devil, is a pejorative name Swedes gave to Finnish immigrants in Sweden during the 1950’s and 1960’s. For Finnish people Finnjävel means ”sisu”, a Finnish combination of stamina, perseverance and ambition, seasoned with a pinch of megalomania. Unforgettable meal!
Day 3
Breakfast at Scandinavia Cafe at Old Market. Best cardamom and cinnamon buns in town and if you come back here for lunch, don’t miss the traditional salmon soup - delicious!
Lunch at Yes Yes Yes
Stylish yet laid-back Yes Yes Yes offers a diverse menu of vegetarian and vegan dishes with lots of delicious choices that you can share. Yes Yes Yes recently claimed runner-up for the 50 most romantic restaurants in the world for 2020. Undoubtedly, it’s sweet, it’s quirky and it’s tasty! We tried ‘Complete Comfort’ set menu, it was light yet enough for a weekend brunch-style meal.
Address:Iso Roobertinkatu1, 00120 Helsinki, Tel.+358961285130, bookings@yesyesyes.fi, www.yesyesyes.fi
For the last dinner we headed to Brasserie & Pub Alexanderplats.
Brasserie & Pub Alexanderplats is an easy going restaurant located in Eteläesplanadi where you can enjoy staying at the bar as well as have a casual French inspired dinner. Restaurant’s concept of a brasserie means that you will get dishes from the best ingredients inspired by the greatest European classic kitchen, no need to add any extra decoration. The atmosphere is pure and elegant, and the interior decoration is full of design classics from Arne Jacobsen, Ilmari Tapiovaara and Alvar Aalto. New art deco inspired artwork has been created specifically for the restaurant by Alvar Gullichsen. The restaurant is open every day.
Address: Eteläesplanadi22,00130 Helsinki, Tel:+358447239030, info@alexanderplats.fi, www.alexanderplats.fi/en/
Next morning it was time to leave. It was a much needed winter getaway and I can’t recommend Helsinki more! If you remember my 2019 summer trip here - I had the best time as well. It’s a very diverse destination with lots activities for summer, autumn or winter. City breaks are back!